MK Randall

When people ask me for a recipe, almost 100 percent of the time, I send them this one. It’s easy, full of flavor, and always a big hit. My mom learned this version of arrabbiata from an Italian woman she befriended while she and my dad were stationed in Naples, Italy.

Chef’s hint: Do not skip the pancetta. That simple ingredient makes this recipe.

Ingredients

• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 4 slices pancetta, minced
• 2 garlic cloves, minced
• 2 pounds canned whole plum tomatoes, undrained
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 3/4 teaspoon dried hot pepper flakes
• 1 pound penne
• 3/4 cup grated Pecorino Romano
• 1 tablespoon freshly grated Parmesan
• 2 tablespoons butter
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Directions

1. Heat the olive oil in a heavy skillet over medium-low heat. Add the pancetta and garlic. Cook, stirring frequently, until the pancetta is crisp and the garlic is golden, about 10 minutes.
2. Add the tomatoes and their liquid, salt, and pepper flakes. Bring to a boil, breaking up the tomatoes as they cook. Continue cooking until the sauce thickens, about 30 minutes. Stir in the butter.
3. Meanwhile, cook the penne in a large pot of boiling salted water until al dente. Drain well.
4. Add the pasta to the sauce and toss to coat. Mix in both cheeses, season with salt and black pepper, and serve immediately.

Make-ahead magic: The cooking time is short, but the sauce tastes even better if you prepare it earlier in the day and reheat it while the pasta boils. Don’t cook the pasta until you’re ready to serve.

Clinton Kelly—from What Not to Wear, The Chew, and the Chewed Up podcast—came up with this simple but incredibly tasty soup. This is my version, with a few personal changes.

Chef’s hint: Soak the leeks before washing them—and yes, you want to wash them thoroughly. Leeks are notoriously sandy, and grit is not the flavor profile we’re after.

Ingredients

• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 2 leeks, soaked, thoroughly washed, and sliced
• 1 onion, diced
• 2 celery stalks, chopped
• 1 garlic clove, minced
• 2 cups milk (2% or whole)
• 4 cups chicken stock
• 1 bay leaf
• 4 Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cubed
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
• 1/2 cup half-and-half
• 4 slices country bread, toasted
• 4 slices Irish sharp cheddar
• Sliced green onion tops, for serving

Directions

1. Heat the oil in a large stockpot over medium-high heat. Add the onion, leeks, celery, and garlic. Cook until softened and fragrant, about 5 minutes.
2. Add the stock, milk, bay leaf, and potatoes. Season with salt and pepper and bring to a simmer. Cook until the potatoes are tender, about 25 minutes.
3. Remove the bay leaf. Stir in the parsley and half-and-half, then allow the soup to cool slightly. Purée in batches in a blender, or use an immersion blender directly in the pot.
4. For the open-faced sandwiches, preheat the broiler. Place one slice of cheese on each piece of toast and broil until melted and browned in spots, about 2–3 minutes.
5. Ladle the soup into bowls, sprinkle with sliced green onion, and serve with the cheddar toast.

Sláinte mhaith! Good health!

When I visited New Orleans in the ’90s, I fell in love with red beans and rice. At the French Market, an older Cajun man told me the best recipe was printed on the French Market coffee bag. So, naturally, I bought the coffee. Clever marketing? Sure. But it was a good recipe.

This version has evolved over the years into a mixture of that original recipe and my own changes. If you enjoy exploring haunted places as much as I do, don’t miss New Orleans—one of the most decadent, bawdy, and lovely cities in the world.

A small but important note: Creole seasoning and Cajun seasoning are not the same thing. FYI from the haunted pantry.

Ingredients

• 1 tablespoon olive oil (the original used shortening—you do you)
• 1 yellow onion, chopped
• 3 garlic cloves, chopped
• 1 green or red bell pepper, chopped
• 8 cups water
• 1 pound dried red beans, sorted and rinsed
• 1 smoked ham hock
• 1/2 pound smoked sausage, cut into bite-size pieces
• 1 pound chorizo or alligator sausage, cut into bite-size pieces
• 2 celery stalks, chopped
• 2 bay leaves
• 1 tablespoon Creole seasoning
• 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
• 1/2 teaspoon dried sage
• Several dashes hot pepper sauce
• 3 cups cooked white rice, or more as needed
• Salt, to taste

Directions

1. Heat the olive oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic, bell pepper, and a dash of salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 5–7 minutes.
2. Combine the water, red beans, and ham hock in a large pot and bring to a boil. Stir in the cooked onion mixture, smoked sausage, chorizo or alligator sausage, and celery. Return to a boil.
3. Add the bay leaves, Creole seasoning, thyme, and sage. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer until the beans are tender, about 5 hours. Stir occasionally and add a little more water if needed.
4. Remove and discard the ham hock and bay leaves. Stir in the hot pepper sauce, adjust the seasoning, and serve over white rice.

Put a little New Orleans in the room: Listen to Corey Ledet & His Zydeco Band while you eat →

When I was young, “Great-Grandma” was too hard to say, so I called her Gaga. Now we have a much more famous Gaga. 😉 However, to my mind, my Gaga is the most famous.

Her original sugar-cookie recipe called for shortening. Crisco? Nope. I began experimenting, borrowed a little inspiration from King Arthur Baking’s holiday butter cookies, and created a buttery almond sugar cookie that makes my family very happy.

Cookie Ingredients

• 1 1/4 cups confectioners’ sugar
• 18 tablespoons salted butter, at room temperature
• 1 large egg yolk (reserve the white for another use or for topping)
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/4 teaspoon almond extract
• 2 3/4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

If using unsalted butter, increase the salt to 1 teaspoon.

Icing Ingredients

• 2 1/4 cups confectioners’ sugar
• 2 tablespoons light corn syrup
• 1 1/2 tablespoons to 2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon milk, as needed
• Food coloring of your choice

Directions

1. Beat together the confectioners’ sugar, butter, egg yolk, salt, and almond extract until smooth.
2. Add the flour and mix until the dough becomes smooth. It will seem dry at first and then suddenly come together. If it refuses to cooperate, dribble in 1 tablespoon of water.
3. Divide the dough in half and shape each half into a flattened disk. Wrap and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or overnight.
4. When ready to bake, let the dough soften at room temperature for 20–30 minutes. It should still feel cold but be pliable enough to roll.
5. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Roll out the dough, cut it into shapes, and arrange the cookies on baking sheets.
6. Bake for 12–14 minutes, until set and barely browned around the edges. Cool completely before icing—although you should absolutely pop one of those bad boys into your mouth as soon as it’s safe. They are soooo good.
7. To make the icing, whisk together the confectioners’ sugar, corn syrup, and half the milk. Slowly add more milk until the icing is smooth and pourable. Tint as desired, then spread or drizzle over the cooled cookies.

My family lived in the Philippines—in Makati, if you know where that is!—for three years in the early 1980s. It was wonderful. Hot, but wonderful.

The people were amazing, but as a young person, I thought the fact that they put fish sauce on everything was “gross.” So I turned to the one thing that wasn’t covered in fish sauce: lumpia. It’s basically an egg roll, Filipino style—and this is the recipe we make every year for the holidays.

Ingredients

• 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
• 1 pound ground pork
• 2 garlic cloves, crushed
• 1/2 cup chopped onion
• 1/2 cup minced carrots
• 1/2 cup chopped green onions
• 1/2 cup thinly sliced green cabbage
• 1 teaspoon ground black pepper
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1 teaspoon garlic powder
• 1 teaspoon soy sauce
• Wonton wrappers
• About 2 cups peanut or vegetable oil, for frying

Directions

1. Heat 1 tablespoon vegetable oil in a wok or large skillet over high heat. Add the pork and cook, stirring frequently, until no pink remains. Transfer the pork to a plate.
2. Drain the skillet, leaving a thin coating of fat. Add the garlic and onion and cook for 2 minutes. Return the pork to the pan and stir in the carrots, green onions, and cabbage. Season with black pepper, salt, garlic powder, and soy sauce. Remove from the heat and cool until safe to handle.
3. Place 1–2 teaspoons of filling diagonally near one corner of each wonton wrapper. Fold the corner over the filling, tuck in the sides, and roll tightly. Moisten the final edge with water to seal. Keep the finished rolls covered with plastic wrap so they don’t dry out.
4. Pour oil into a heavy skillet to a depth of about 1/2 inch and heat over medium heat. Working in batches, fry 3–4 lumpia at a time for 1–2 minutes, turning as needed, until golden brown on all sides.
5. Drain on paper towels and serve immediately.

Optional Lumpia Sauce

• 1/4 cup soy sauce
• 1 tablespoon rice vinegar
• 1/2 teaspoon granulated garlic

Stir everything together in a small bowl. I don’t use dipping sauce—but if you want one, this is a good one.